Tuesday 13 August 2024

The Great Iberian Road Trip, Day 44: The Day The Enthusiasm Died

 


On Monday 12 August, I underwent a whole new experience: I was robbed in broad daylight at an ATM in the old town centre of Setúbal. It all happened so fast, I almost let my brain trick me into denying it. Luckily the people who saw it insisted on taking it to the next level.

In the morning, I went to the supermarket to buy food. Bonny Bee was working hard today, so I needed to do the heavy lifting with the children. After dinner, we were going to go into town for a cake or ice cream and then have another attempt at Dainoris’s surfboard in slightly calmer waters.

After a meal of pasta with meatballs in a cheesy cream sauce, I took Livia and Dainoris out for the afternoon. Milda stayed at home because she dithered and procrastinated, expecting us to wait for her while she fiddled with something on the floor. She was still without shoes.

I parked the car on 5 October Avenue in the north of the centre and we took a walk around looking for the place we had gone to last time, but my Google Maps timeline had decided to completely disappear. I like to keep a record of places visited and now it was telling me it had all been wiped while Google updates on a global basis “to provide you with the best client care”. Yeah, right…

So I got a bit frustrated and after turning around several times on the same streets, with two moaning kids in tow, I landed on a café with ice creams with juice for them and cakes with coffee for me. I took out my card to pay and the jolly proprietor apologised saying he didn’t have a card reader but there was an ATM about 40 metres down the street.



The kids were happily chomping on their ice creams so I quickly went to the cash machine. When I put my card inside, it asked the usual questions – PIN and how much cash. I asked for 70, because if you ask for 50, often one note will come out, and many shops like these don’t have the change for that. The card was released first and then the teller machine counted out a 20 and a 50 for me.

At the very moment it emerged from the machine, a hand abruptly reached out and tried to grab the notes. The first attempt didn’t succeed, but the second one did. And then he ran away down one of the many alleyways in the centre of this city. It all happened in slow-motion. You hear this a lot from people who have been robbed, but now I know it’s actually true – I can replay the thing over and over again, and the scenario really does develop that way. Before you can even think, it’s all over with.

The woman from the accessories shop opposite the ATM came running out in indignant disgust, as did two women with a pram who were waiting just at the entrance to the shop next door. Two builders gave me advice never to stand too far from the ATM, and don’t let the money linger in the slot. The woman from the accessories shop told me to call the police, but in my state of denial, I said it wasn’t worth it and I had to go back to my kids. She said it was, in fact she insisted, so she called the police herself.

By this time, the café owner had come down the street and also told me it was best to call the police, and I followed him back to the table where my cake and coffee were waiting.

To their credit, the police showed up more or less just as I had finished my coffee. They were two really friendly and patient officers. One was near retirement and the other was in his prime, and they asked me for a description of the guy. The ladies around me concurred with the account. The police knew exactly who it was – obviously a known offender. Before they had finished asking me the arbitrary questions, they had picked him up and were taking him to the station.

The younger one asked me if I would accept to come and identify him, meaning we would have to take a ride in the police car. Then the radio came through asking how my Portuguese was. I said it was pretty sketchy but I can handle myself in such a situation. But their superior officer insisted that I needed a friend or contact there to interpret for me. In the eyes of the law, everything had to be as clear-cut as possible. If I knew someone here in Setúbal he would appear in court in the morning. If not, it would take a while longer. As I didn’t, it was decided that it was best to just let justice take its course.

I lost 70 euro, but I also lost any remaining warmth I had for Portugal. Now, I am just counting the days until we head back to Spain. After that incident, I drove us all to a small stony beach just along the coast where they played for a while before we went back to the apartment for food. They took a long time to settle, but fortunately they had had no idea what had happened to me.

No real sense of normality returned to me that day, and as I write these lines it’s the day after. I’m still feeling quite low, but I have to occupy the children.



 

 

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